Buying in Roses or Empuriabrava: the guide

In the north of the Costa Brava, the Bay of Roses draws buyers from across Europe every year, won over by the light, the easy access and the sea as far as the eye can see. Two names keep coming up: Roses and Empuriabrava. Although they are only a few kilometres apart, they offer two very different ways of living on the Costa Brava. Here is what you need to know to choose with your eyes open, before making an offer.

Roses: a real town, open all year round

With just over 20,000 inhabitants, Roses is one of the liveliest towns in the north of the Costa Brava, even out of season. Shops, a market, a health centre, schools, a fishing port: you can live here twelve months a year, which makes it a solid choice for a holiday home you use often, or for a retirement plan.

The town stretches along the bay, facing due south, then climbs towards the hills leading to Cap de Creus. This geography creates several quite distinct markets:

The centre and the seafront, around the main beach and the Ciutadella: mostly flats, within walking distance of everything, and in high demand for letting.
Santa Margarida and its canals: a flat neighbourhood close to the beaches, with houses and flats that sometimes look out over the water.
The hillside developments, such as Mas Fumats or Puig Rom: villas with views over the bay, more peace and quiet, but steep streets and a car is essential.
The coves towards Cap de Creus, such as Canyelles, L'Almadrava or Montjoi: an exceptional natural setting, few properties and prices to match.

Empuriabrava: life on the canals

Empuriabrava is not a municipality but part of Castelló d'Empúries, created in the late 1960s around a simple idea: letting everyone moor their boat in front of their house. The result is one of the largest residential marinas in Europe, with around 24 kilometres of navigable canals and several thousand private moorings.

For sailing enthusiasts, the experience is unique: you leave home by boat and reach the open sea in a few minutes. The land is flat, the beach is long and the Aiguamolls de l'Empordà nature reserve is close by, ideal for cycling and birdwatching.

On the other hand, Empuriabrava lives very much to the rhythm of summer. In winter, some of the properties are shut up and the atmosphere becomes very quiet, which suits some people and puts others off. It is best to spend a few days there out of season before deciding.

What to check before buying

Each of these markets has its own pitfalls. Here are the ones we check every time for our clients.

The mooring: in Empuriabrava, a house 'with a mooring' does not always mean the same thing. You need to check the mooring's legal status, its length, the depth of the canal and the size of boat it can really take.
Holiday lets: both towns are very popular for seasonal letting, but a property without a licence cannot be let by the week. Check the licence and the community of owners' rules, as explained in our article on letting your property.
The community of owners: many flats are part of developments with a pool and gardens. The service charges and approved works weigh on your budget.
Water and damp: by a canal or in a low-lying area, look at the condition of the walls and the ventilation, and check the area's flood exposure on the official maps. Talk to your insurer.
Planning for villas: on the hills of Roses as along the canals, many houses have been extended over time. Every extension must be declared and compliant.

What budget should you plan for?

Prices vary widely from one area to another. A flat in a development in Empuriabrava or in the centre of Roses is often more affordable than in Begur or Calella de Palafrugell. Conversely, a canal-side house with a large mooring, or a villa with views over the bay, is in a different league. To work out your budget, start with our method for setting a realistic budget, not forgetting the buying costs in Catalonia.

Getting there

This is one of the bay's great strengths: Girona airport, with flights from the UK, is about an hour away, Figueres-Vilafant high-speed rail station is about twenty minutes away and the French border less than an hour's drive. That makes short trips and keeping an eye on the property easier.

And the surrounding area?

If you like the bay but want a different atmosphere, L'Escala and L'Estartit, a little further south, offer smaller towns, coves and the Medes Islands. Further north, Cadaqués and Port de la Selva have real character, with fewer properties on the market. Our article which towns to choose on the Costa Brava covers all the main areas.

Roses or Empuriabrava: how to decide?

You want a town that is lively all year round, services within walking distance and a market that resells well: look at Roses first.
You sail, or dream of sailing, and want a house with a mooring at the door: Empuriabrava has no equal.
You are looking for views and peace and quiet: the hills of Roses and the coves towards Cap de Creus are worth a visit.

Either way, the right choice depends on how you will really use the property. That is what we clarify with you from the first conversation, before viewing anything.